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The way you dress, the way you act, even the way you greet a headhunter on a first meeting are as important as any job interview.

“I’m going to be on vacation when I meet you,” said the candidate, “so I’ll be dressed informally, I won’t be wearing a suit.” “I’m not going to be on vacation,” replied the head-hunter, “and neither is my client.”

On the other hand, a successful stockbroker in his early thirties visited a search firm in a torn sweater, wrinkled denim slacks, and moccasins. “I’m taking the day off,” he said. “After I finish talking to you, I’m going sailing.” This independent soul was testing the headhunter and through him, a prospective employer-broadcasting his unwillingness to white-collar it and play the game, sufficiently satisfied with his job and ambivalent about looking for a new one. He was not introduced to the recruiter’s client for the obvious reasons, although because of his business success, he could have been considered, very selectively, for a different client.

Despite the absence of a suit or even a sports jacket, a computer specialist wearing a shirt, a thin black leather tie and casual slacks was referred to a client. The man was gifted in data processing and management information systems and held a PhD in the field from a top school. He also had a fine technical record with his present employer. The headhunter’s client badly needed, and was having difficulty recruiting, someone with this man’s skills. And the referral was made although the candidate was unwilling to comply with the consultant’s suggestion that he wear a suit to his first meeting with the client, a meeting with two group vice presidents. “I’ll take it under advisement,” he said. Both the headhunter and the client, as it turned out, were willing to take a gamble, in this newer field, on an executive with a nonconformist style.

The vice president, director of marketing for a billion dollar company, headquartered in a suburban city, flew into New York to meet with a headhunter whose client was pin-striped and buttoned-down. Tall, handsome, athletic-looking, affable, articulate, he had style, but he wore a just barely acceptable tan cotton-polyester suit, unacceptable argyle socks, and rust colored, sporty loafers.

A candidate showed up for his first meeting with a recruiter in Levis and a sweater. Sensing the recruiter’s disapproval, he said, “I’m going to the garage after we talk.” He was the general manager of a bus corporation. “The garage has 140 buses. Twenty are probably half apart and in thick grease on the floor. I’m dressed for what I do. Besides, I couldn’t maintain a rapport with my men if I dressed in a pin-stripe.” The man made his point. He was also bright, and he was referred. He came in second.

Atypical examples, but they highlight a key point about attire. Unless you are a genius, a great creative artist, or aware that the headhunter or his client are flamboyant (this is rarely the case!), wear conservative business clothes, preferably a dark suit, a white shirt and conventional tie, dark knee-length socks and dark well-shined shoes. Women should wear a version of this too, perhaps substituting a blouse and necklace for the shirt and tie. Otherwise, your chances of being referred may be hurt. Most often you won’t be referred at all. Lack of color-coordinated furnishings, and cheap or worn garments can prejudice a first meeting. A recruiter may make a suggestion regarding one’s dress, if he thinks it will be accepted without offending. He’s likely to do it, however, only when he believes the executive’s credentials are otherwise satisfactory.

Interviews are a two-way street. An executive may want to be himself and work where he is accepted for who he is. It may also take this person longer to connect. Depending on the field, however, he may have to change his style.

You are measured by the search consultant from the onset, for technical abilities in relation to a job description as well as for personal fit or potential chemistry with the client. A candidate’s overall presentation is also weighed and examined in relation to other candidates. So it pays to look neat and be cordial.

If possible, visit the rest room and freshen up before meeting the recruiter. One executive, in a handsome custom-tailored suit did so, but forgot to zip his fly!

The winter wind gave another candidate’s longish hair such an eccentric blowing that it was hard to keep from chuckling in spite of his being a highly serious and successful vice president.

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